Purina “Get one visibly healthy pet”
I love this one because it really captures the fact that your dog may look healthy on the outside but are they really thriving or just surviving on this food?
SuperCoat ingredients: meat and meat by-products (including poultry), wholegrain wheat*, wholegrain barley and sorghum and corn*, cereal and plant by-products* *denotes a cheap filler.
The marketing messaging suggests one thing, but the ACTUAL quality of the food suggests otherwise- in some cases I would say the complete opposite.
You may have noticed I have only mentioned very big, global brands here. That’s on purpose. I encourage you as the pet parent to do some research on the brand and company that makes your dogs food and to make your own decisions on whether you trust them with the health of your dog.
Don’t take the brands marketing words and taglines as gospel- read the ingredients list to see if they practice what they preach, or if they’re putting profits first with the use of clever* marketing.
*deceiving
WRITTEN BY ME NOT CHAT GPT!
-Kate Opitz: owner and founder of The Saltiest Dog.
Okay, ChatGPT wrote the title cause I was stuck!
]]>How often do dogs need parasite prevention?
What is the best parasite prevention for dogs?
What is a natural parasite prevention for dogs?
But don’t just take my word for it!
I have gathered some expert opinions from a canine nutritionist (Clare Kearney from Hunde), a trusted vet (Dr Nicole Rous from Shy Tiger) and those with experience and success in using natural alternatives (Claire from The Kruzzy Kollective) and an experienced industry professional Karen English from Scratch & Sniff in Ballina NSW (AKA: paralysis tick central!).
I joked about titling this blog “Parasite-Gate”, but I decided to go with a much more “googleable” title as even though I laugh now about all the hate I got, this is a serious issue and should be treated as such (can’t help myself with the puns!) #sorrynotsorry. DON’T@ME!
As this is quite comprehensive, I have broken it up into three sections so you can choose to read what’s most relevant to you.
Intestinal Worms
Contrary to what the clever marketing from big pharma will have you believe- worming medication doesn’t actually “prevent” worms. It just kills whatever is already there. This is why we worm puppies at a much higher frequency than adult dogs- because it takes much less of a worm burden to cause serious problems for a puppy than it does an adult dog.
Personally, I rarely worm my dog, Lulu. Maybe once every couple of years if I remember. Not because I’m against worming medication- I actually think intestinal wormers are the lesser of all the evils, as they usually have just one active ingredient and are not too toxic. But remember- every medication you give your dog needs to be processed by the body, so nothing is without an effect.
When dogs “scoot” it is automatically assumed that they have worms, but scooting is way more likely to be because of anal glands that intestinal worms. More on that here.
Dr Nicoles thoughts on intestinal worming:
Gut wormers I treat as a “case-by-case” situation, I strongly believe a healthy gut (hello fresh fed pets) are pretty resistant to parasites but I’m also not naive it’s a possibility. We’re lucky we don’t have all the parasite issues they have in other countries but there are still zoonotic diseases of concern so I personally will randomly worm my dogs probably once a year with Milbemax, but if I was vigilant- I would do faecal floats every 6 months to assess if they have a worm burden and only worm if needed. There are many natural products that have *some* evidence against worms like pumpkin seeds (cucurbitacin) and even our controversial friend garlic (I’m pro garlic!).
I think in general wormers are in and out of the body and the chemicals aren’t stored like flea/tick/heartworm chemicals so I worry less.
Clare from Hunde on intestinal worms:
I don’t give intestinal wormers with any frequency. I will treat for worms if I suspect an infestation or just sort of randomly once every so often as a precaution but because they don’t have fleas, worms are much less likely. Generally, I try to avoid giving my dogs medications and chemical treatments unless there is an actual need, rather than a potential. Ticks are an exception because they’re so quick and deadly.
Key takeaways for intestinal worms:
1. Worming medication does not “prevent” worms- it kills whatever worms are already there.
2. It’s important to worm puppies at a higher frequency than adult dogs.
3. If you want to avoid unnecessarily over medicating- you can have a faecal float done at your vet, and only treat for worms if your dog has them.
4. The chemicals in intestinal worming medications are less harmful than some medications that treat for multiple parasites at once.
5. Some natural options that *may* assist in preventing intestinal worms are pumpkin seeds, garlic, diatomaceous earth, furry treats (like these) or homeopathic remedies.
Product Recommendations:
https://naturedog.com.au/product/kanex/
Heartworm
I have never treated my dog for heartworm, and in my decade plus experience as a vet nurse, I never once saw a positive heartworm case. Like testing for intestinal worms before treating- we can do the same for heartworm. A simple blood test at your vet will give you a negative or positive result, so for something that can be easily checked and only treated when and if necessary- I would tend to avoid giving a monthly treatment for heartworm. Especially given its VERY unlikely for your dog to get heartworm anyway (particularly for those that don’t live in tropical climates).
Clare from Hunde on heartworm:
I don’t treat for heartworm; I test for it. This is something I feel a bit conflicted over and I wonder if I should use prevention because I do live in an area where it’s possible. But for now, we test.
I feel okay about testing for heartworms because it’s a slower progressing parasite and it can be treated effectively down the road if detected fairly early, whereas ticks its often very serious once symptoms show and that can happen in a matter of hours.
Dr Nicole on heartworm:
For Heartworm I choose to run the blood antigen tests at the same time as titre testing and am also in a low-risk area.
Key takeaways on heartworm:
Fleas and Ticks
This is where we start to get a little controversial. Fleas and ticks themselves are generally not particularly HARMFUL and can be treated relatively easily when and if necessary, with the exception of the paralysis tick- which are absolutely harmful.
Because I live in Melbourne VIC, I don’t treat Lulu for fleas or ticks as I have never seen one on her in years (well actually her entire life).
Dr Nicole:
Flea/tick prevention for me is on an at-risk individual assessment. I don’t personally choose to do it as I live in suburban Melbourne where we don’t see paralysis tick (yet!). If we did, I can guarantee I would and I know other integrative vets feel the same. Unfortunately, there is no natural prevention (that I am aware of) that’s effective against paralysis tick. I would also probably treat if I had immune compromised individuals in my household just due to increased risk of disease (e.g. cat scratch fever).
Clare from Hunde:
I use chemical flea and tick preventatives on my dogs because I live in the Northern Rivers, where it’s subtropical and an extremely high-risk area for paralysis ticks. It’s definitely not something I decided to do lightly, it’s actually something I really struggle with because the idea of feeding my dogs insecticide is completely at odds with the way I approach caring for them generally. They’re totally raw fed, receive minimal vaccinations (when actually required, not on an arbitrary schedule), and we try to opt for holistic care when possible and appropriate. But I love them dearly so I need to sometimes put my personal beliefs aside for their benefit, and tick prevention is one of those times.
We use Nexguard monthly chewables because it’s the brand I have researched the most extensively and the research indicates that the side effects are actually extremely low (but I do acknowledge that this research is often imperfect). Monthly over 3-monthly so it’s less poison at a time, and I use chewables over spot-ons because they’re more effective (99% vs 80-something). I avoid Bravecto because, even though the chemicals work the same way, this particular pesticide is widely used in crops and other pest baits and it poses some environmental issues, plus I’ve heard more horror stories about it. I only ever use the flea and tick version, not the one that does everything at once. If they had one that was just for ticks, I’d use that but it’s the same poison that kills fleas so they’re always combined. If I need to treat worms I do it separately to spread the toxic load out, which was actually recommended by my wonderful raw-feeding vet too.
We generally only treat during tick season, but to be honest that’s become pretty blurry lately and I found two ticks on one of my dogs in July this year, so I might need to start using it close to year-round unfortunately. Winter here is very mild and the floods sent the ticks into overdrive, plus we have ticks on our property, so it’s not just a matter of being cautious on bush walks.
If I was confident that a natural solution would effectively manage paralysis ticks I’d be open to it, but I’m not aware of any that come close in effectiveness. Manually checking them every day unfortunately isn’t a realistic approach for us either as one of my dogs is double coated and the other is very reactive and doesn’t like to be examined, plus I have a baby and I work full time. If they weren’t paralysis ticks that could kill my dogs in a short period, I wouldn’t feel the need to do it.
I also weigh up the impact that needing to treat my dogs for tick borne illness would have on them. An intensive hospital stay with anti-tick serum is not something I take lightly either, both from a cost perspective but also the long- and short-term impact it would have on them physically.
For me it really is about balance. I am balancing the risk of tick preventative side effects with tick illness, as well as my guilt if they succumbed to a tick vs if they became unwell from my effort to protect them. They live a very low-tox life and are both in excellent health, so they’re well placed to tolerate this one less than ideal addition. People say it’s like taking painkillers in case you get a headache, but I view it as more akin to taking anti-malaria drugs when you travel to high-risk places, or immunising against deadly diseases. I think a lot of the issues come from stacking lots of less-than-ideal additives, like monthly parasite all-in-ones, annual vaccinations, processed food, medications that treat symptoms etc etc. It’s up to us to manage all of this in combination, so education is so key to making the decision that’s right for you and your animals on the basis of your personal circumstances.
Claire from Kruzzy Kollective:
As a raw feeder for my boy Kruz I always try to do the best by him when it comes to parasite protection. I choose to treat him naturally after he had a bad reaction to a flea and tick treatment at the age of 1. This is why I choose to give Kruz natural prevention for parasites these include: blackseed oil, diatomaceous earth, apple cider vinegar, pumpkin seeds and coconut oil.
Karens thoughts:
As we know the East Coast of Australia is where the ticks typically congregate and there are two paralysis tick species out there in the Northern and Southern parts of the coast.
The main key to understand as a pet owner with keeping on top of fleas, worms and ticks from a more holistic perspective is to have a healthy strong immune system and this involves providing your pet with a balanced species appropriate diet of meat, organs and bones making up that bulk of the diet.
As parasites look for a weakened host and what weakens our pets immune system is inundating them with chemicals, preservatives and synthetic vitamins and minerals that are found in the many highly processed options available out there on the market now.
By the use of over vaccinating our pets when we should be considering titer testing, plus using the chemical options for preventing ticks, fleas and worms, also weaken the immune system.
By creating an environment internally for your pet that isn’t suitable for parasites, but also understanding the external environment your pet is exposed to is how it all works together. As long term and even short-term use for some dogs these chemical options can come with consequences with seizures, cancers, tumours, leaky gut etc etc…plus shortening possibly your pets life. And to also understand if your dog genetically has the MDR1 gene which puts them at a greater risk of seizures with the options like Bravecto etc and even Ivermectin (used in worming products for pets) can be a problem as well.
Internal options that can be used are adding to the diet options such as fresh garlic, apple cider vinegar, crushed pumpkin seeds, diatomaceous earth and herbs e.g. wormwood, herbal tinctures etc. Food additions like grated carrot, coconut flakes, options with the fur on can act as a cleanse option for worms…plus detoxing your pet with something like milk thistle …in conjunction with a species appropriate diet.
Externally is knowing about the environment you live in as ticks are more prolific in areas where wildlife/ bandicoots are one of the main carriers of ticks in grass and bush dense areas, also the east coast of Australia. As by maintaining your yard/ paddock with cutting grass regularly…you can use nematodes to help control the ticks, or by not taking your pet in areas that ticks are known or using topical options on your pet.
Topical options can be an apple cider water mix sprayed on the coat, essential oil mix sprayed on the coat, neem oil options, diatomaceous earth and even coconut oil rubbed into the coat …. plus, anything lemon or citrus be that oils is a good deterrent to ticks, mites and fleas and mosquitos that spread the heartworm. As heartworm are only transmitted more during the summer months when the temperature has been above 14C constant for 8 days…otherwise it breaks the cycle for it to occur.
There is no 100% guarantee with any option be that natural or chemical to be reliant on…as always check your pets coat daily…if needing to use a chemical option I would be opting more for a spot-on external option over something internal.
Key takeaways for fleas & ticks:
1. The “all-in-one” medications that treat for 4-5 parasites at a time are the most toxic and potentially dangerous.
2. If you live in a paralysis tick area its important to prevent ticks.
3. If you want to avoid unnecessarily over medicating- the spot-on treatments that treat for fleas and ticks only and work from the outside rather than the inside-out are less likely to cause serious adverse effects.
4. Some natural options that *may* assist in preventing fleas and ticks are: blackseed oil, fresh garlic (added to food), diatomaceous earth, essential oils.
IN CONCLUSION
It is up to you as the pet parent, to educate yourself on all the parasite prevention options available and choose preventative medications based on risk posed to your pet. The level of risk that each individual is comfortable with varies- so choosing to prevent or not is entirely your decision.
An important factor in all of this is considering your dog’s general health and well-being. Healthy dogs who eat well and life relatively “low tox” lives are more likely to have strong immune systems and are therefore less desirable hosts for parasites all together.
Dr Nicoles Main Takeaways on Parasite Prevention in Dogs:
1. If immune compromised individuals in your household just use the preventatives (because of the zoonosis risk).
2. If residing in a paralysis tick area- use preventatives.
3. The chemicals used in gut wormers are less of a concern than flea/tick/heartworm.
4. Don’t feel bad about the choices you need to make for your family. Diet plays a bigger role in health than any of these thing’s IMO.
5. If you have to use them, consider implementing a detox regime as part of their lifestyle. Karen Becker has a good video on this.
]]>
Look its not a particularly nice or fun topic to discuss, but the reality is lots of dogs have issues with their anal glands.
]]>Look its not a particularly nice or fun topic to discuss, but the reality is lots of dogs have issues with their anal glands.
As a vet nurse, we had to express anal glands all the time- and let me tell you- anal gland juice is not something you want near you. Its one of the foulest smelling bodily fluids around (sorry, sorry gross I know!). If your dog has ever had any trouble with their AG's you will know what I'm on about here.
Whilst they are relatively easy to express- having your dogs anal glands expressed can actually cause more harm than good. The more they are messed with the less likely they are to express naturally and then you can end up in all kinds of trouble with anal gland abscesses etc (OUCH). Or you end up at the vet every month for a squeeze and trust me- your vet doesn't want that as much as you don't want to pay for it (also, doubtful your dog enjoys it but I would never kink shame them if they did).
The easiest way to facilitate the natural emptying of your dogs anal glands is to make sure their poo is nice and firm. This is how they are emptied- a nice hard little nugget of poo passes the gland and because it is hard the liquid oozes from the gland and comes out naturally with the poo. (wow that's a sentence that conjures up some imagery) :|
Dogs poo should be hard, small and firm. If its not it may be time to look at their diet and introduce raw meaty bones and/or a good probiotic. The most common reason for the inadequate poos is a lack of fibre in the diet.
There are a few ways you can increase fibre in the diet (and help with anal gland issues). Its important to not go too crazy with all of these options as it can end up the other way- constipation/blockage, which is an even more expensive vet visit than a simple AG expression.
1. Feed furry treats!
2. Include carrot and pumpkin in their diet.
3. Give raw meaty bones regularly.
4. Add some Psyllium Husk to their food (1 teaspoon per 10kg of bodyweight daily).
FUN (?!) FACTS ABOUT ANAL GLANDS!
Using the right supplements at the right time for your dog can have major health benefits throughout their life, and support them into old age.
You can delay the onset and progression of arthritis by using joint support supplements and even things like behaviour can be positively affected with the supplementation of omega three fatty acids, magnesium and zinc.
There are so many things that we know are good for human health that also apply to our pooches. Another one is DRINKING WATER. Being well hydrated supports every system in the body.
A healthy dog should drink, on average, between 30-60ml of water per kg of body weight per day.
You can help hydrate your dog by having multiple water sources (some pets prefer a moving water source like a fountain) and ensuring that the water bowl is always clean and fresh.
Adding some extra water to their meals can increase hydration and offering a nutrient dense bone broth regularly is a great way to encourage dogs to drink more.
Stress ages us, and does the same to our dogs. Our dogs are intuitive creatures and can pick up on our own stress levels so the best thing we can do to avoid stressing our dogs out, is to stress less!
This is easier said than done in today’s world, but any attempts you make to improve your own mental health will have a positive effect on pooch too, so pop on a meditation track, run yourself a bath and try to get zen!
The three oldest dogs in the world got at least 2 hours of exercise daily. Enough said!
Anther human health issue that seeps over into the dog world is obesity.
What most people see as a healthy weight for a dog is actually a dog that is overweight. I talk about body condition all the time, and in their optimal state your dog should have ribs that you can feel easily and clear waist definition. Dogs should be lean and are much healthier when they are.
You can see a recent tik tok where I talk about this here!
If your dog is overweight (keeping in mind that most dogs are), reducing their dinner by 20-25% could extend your dogs lifespan significantly.
Just like us, our dogs are exposed to a lot of different chemicals as they go about their daily lives. So any reduction in this exposure can contribute to a longer, healthier life.
There are chemicals in things we use to clean, in pesticides we use in our gardens and most flea and tick medications are actually harmful chemicals that can do more harm than good.
Stick to organic cleaning products if you can and only medicate what needs to be medicated- more about this here.
]]>
SIZE OF DOG |
TYPE OF BONE |
Small Breed
|
Chicken neck; duck foot |
Medium Breed
|
Duck neck; chicken frame |
Large Breed
|
Turkey neck; duck wing |
Is it safe to feed a puppy bones?
Like with everything, there are risks. But these risks can be managed by following some common-sense rules:
-Always supervise: never leave a young puppy unattended with a bone.
-Only feed raw, meaty bones (never cooked).
-Choose size and age-appropriate bones (more on this above and below).
-Start with small edible bones and work your way up to recreational bones as they get older.
-Never feed multiple dogs bones together.
-Take what left of the bone away after a short chewing session in the beginning.
Okay, so what are the risks?
Being aware of the risks will help you to make good choices for your puppy. Keep these things in mind when choosing how & when to give your puppy a bone.
-Bones Can Be A Choking Hazard!
Bones can definitely be a choking hazard, don’t allow your dog to be left with a “swallowable chunk” if they are the kind of dog that will attempt to scoff it down.
-Quality over Quantity
Bones are an important part of your dog’s diet but too much of a good thing can cause problems. Over doing it with bones can cause constipation.
-Broken Teeth
Weight bearing bones can be too hard for overzealous chewers which can result in broken teeth. I once gave Lulu a very hard camel bone and she broke a canine and had to have it removed under general anaesthetic. I thought Lulu was a pro bone eater and would never have an issue eating bones. I now know that we are always learning about our dogs and sometimes it takes making a mistake to do better next time. Every dog is different and it's up to you as their pet parent to learn what is best for your dog. We can manage risks but never completely avoid them.
-Fighting
As a vet nurse I saw the result of many dog fights when working in a vet hospital. More often than not the fights started over food. Bones are high ranking and some dogs will protect them fiercely. The easiest and safest way to avoid a fight is by never feeding multiple dogs’ bones together. Even dogs that have eaten with other dogs their whole life might feel the need to protect a new bone one day, so its not worth the risk to find out. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard “they have never done that” (until they did, that.)
-Intestinal Blockages
Dogs have “super stomachs” that can digest bone when it is raw. More about that here. Cooked bones cannot be digested as easily and can cause blockages and stomach upsets. Never feed your dog cooked bones of any kind.
Okay so we now know the why, what and how to feed raw meaty bones, but I know you have more questions…
How often should I feel my puppy bones?
Puppies can have small edible bones daily, but you can start out with 3 times per week while they are learning.
As they get older, edible bones can be offered daily (i.e. my dog has a duck wing or neck for breakfast every day) but recreational bones should be about 2-3 times per week. Every dog is different so again, this will be about learning what suits your dog and your lifestyle best.
How long should they chew on a bone?
Some things there isn’t an exact answer for, because every dog is different. You will be able to decide this by observing your dog, but as a general rule- start off with 5-15 minutes chewing time and build up to 30-60mins as they get older. Adult dogs can continue with the same bone for days if you let them, but its best to dispose of what’s left after a couple of days. This is personal preference and completely up to you as to the level of risk you are comfortable with, knowing what you know about your dog.
Can all dogs eat bones?
I would love to say yes to this but technically speaking, bones aren’t suitable for some dogs. Its rare, as most dogs are intuitively great at eating bones. I always tell people to “know what kind of a bone eater your dog is and feed them accordingly”. For example, if your dog is an overzealous “scoffer” or “swallower” they have an increased risk of choking on bones. For these dogs it is best to go with huge bones bigger than their head that can’t be swallowed.
If your dog is a “hider”, you may not have found the right bone for them yet. If it is considered high ranking, they may just want to bury it. Try a smaller or different bone until you figure out what’s perfect for them to eat now (rather than later).
Then you’ve got the “marinators” (I’m looking at you Jayce the greyhound!) and my dog is who is a “magician” – as in she makes the entire bone disappear inside her!
Some dogs will resource guard bones so it may not be safe to have bones around, particularly if you have children in your house (I am acutely aware of where my children are when Lulu is eating a bone and have reinforced from a very young age that we leave Lulu alone while she is eating). To read more about dogs and babies here are some "do's and don'ts".
Then you’ve got your “chewers” and “lickers” which are generally all good to manage most bones.
I think we have covered the majority of the information you will need to safely offer your puppy raw meaty bones, but I will finish with a few more tips and some extra reading and resources if you want to get even more knowledgeable about all things bones!
Tidy Tips For Optimal Bone Eating
-Nominate a bone eating location on a mat or towel. If you start this from a young age it will set you up for a lifetime of good (and tidy) bone eating!
-If your puppy is very young, help them by bashing the bones a little with a meat cleaver first.
-You can help by holding the bone for your puppy while they are learning to chew (this can also reduce the risk of swallowing big chunks).
-Always supervise puppies and dogs eating a new kind of bone they haven’t had before.
-Size matters! Choose the right sized bone for your puppy.
-Limit chewing time and dispose of anything that’s left after they have had a good chew.
For more reading on feeding bones- check out these pages:
https://the-saltiest-dog.com.au/blogs/news/can-i-feed-my-dog-raw-bones-hint-yes
https://vetsallnatural.com.au/feeding-raw-bones/
https://perfectlyrawsome.com/raw-feeding-knowledgebase/raw-meaty-bones-puppies/
This is also a great book if you wanna get real comprehensive!
Prefer informative vids? Check out our YouTube channel!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdKZQerj5wM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF_M58_K8K0
Join our Facebook Group The Saltiest Dogs of Melbourne where you can ask us anything!
The motivation behind our ranges, Karl & Charlie, are beautiful Boxer dogs prone to a range of skin irritations.
When Karl was a puppy, he was the itchiest little boy. A wide range of ‘Sensitive’ and Medicated dog shampoos were tried; however they always left Karl with itchy skin. After trying so many different products, nothing seemed to work!
Charlie was around three years old when she suddenly developed red patches across her chest (from a garden allergy). Even after swiftly identifying the culprit and receiving veterinary medications, Charlie started losing her fur from the scratching. Again, many products were tried.
As Roxxie, a qualified and experienced chemist, has a background in developing baby formulations, she set about creating some super sensitive products, custom to their needs.
Of course, it wasn’t going to be that easy! The more Roxxie researched the differences between human and dog formulations, the more she realised that different dogs have different grooming needs.
Think of all the differences between a Border Collie and a Bulldog!
Our first Boxer shampoo and conditioner were developed especially for Karl & Charlie’s short smooth coat and infused with organic Rosehip oil to nourish their sensitive skin. Our Boxer shampoo was developed to be quick rinsing to ensure that nothing can sit close to the skin causing irritation. Our Boxer conditioner was developed to be lightweight and antistatic to moisturise without adding weight; to hydrate, protect and nourish a Boxers short smooth fur and skin. Our Boxer Shampoo & Conditioner are infused with Organic Almond, Ginger, Grapeseed, Macadamia, Rose & Rosehip Oils. We've also packed this hypoallergenic formula with Aloe Vera, Glycerin, Hydrolysed Wheat Protein, Provitamin B5 & Vitamin E. All the Good Stuff, No Nasties!
After seeing the results of the range with Karl & Charlie, Roxxie soon started receiving requests from friends to help their doggies! From a super scratchy Chihuahua to an entangled woolly Poodle, each range is custom formulated for their fur type, coat length, exercise, temperament and grooming needs.
For example our Chihuahua range is developed for a short straight coat and infused with Organic Almond, Apricot, Lavender & Orange Oils. Almond & Apricot oils are excellent all-rounders for dry or sensitive skin as they are both rich in antioxidants, proteins, vitamins and omegas. For our custom hypoallergenic Chihuahua formula, these oils were specifically chosen for their absorption rates into your Chihuahua’s short coat (ensuring the fur is not left feeling oily). They will assist in replenishing natural oils, manage shedding and make grooming a little easier! The Almond oil specifically will assist in strengthening your Chihuahua’s coat. Lavender and Orange oils were both selected for your Chihuahua for their calming properties (and both are well proven to do a lot more!) although let’s be honest – the aroma is divine!
Our Poodle range is quite unique! It was originally developed for our furry friend’s long curls and woolly coat. Our Poodle shampoo is developed for its rich lather, to ensure longer curls are thoroughly saturated for a deep gentle clean. Our Poodle conditioner is developed to be intensely hydrating, especially since a Poodles coat is low shedding. The extra care is certainly worth it over time! It will help with detangling thick, longer curls giving your Poodle a gorgeous coat. Our custom hypoallergenic Poodle formula is infused with Organic Argan, Chamomile, Lemon & Rose Oils. Argan oil is an absolute wonder oil in coat care due to the powerful restorative and strengthening properties. It penetrates the skin and coat, replenishing natural oils, to rejuvenate & condition. Chamomile, Lemon and Rose were included not only for their gorgeous aroma, they are calming, soothing & assist in helping ease any anxieties.
As we are strictly against animal testing of any kind, our ranges were tested on a panel of furry humans! This was to ensure that the range was ultra gentle, super safe and nourishing. The range then went through rigorous product testing for safety and efficacy.
Whilst our formulas started as a passion project to provide the best possible care for Karl & Charlie, we have utilised almost 2 years of research into our hypoallergenic formulas, along with the key ingredients needed for a healthy skin and coat and developed even more ranges for our furry friends.
]]>It’s an age-old expression, but can you really give a dog a bone?
You’ve heard that dogs love to chew on bones AND you’ve heard bones are dangerous for dogs. With so much conflicting advice online, or overhead at the dog park, it’s tough to know what’s true and what’s not.
Here’s the short and sweet version - cooked bones should not be given to dogs, as these become brittle through the cooking process, and are more likely to splinter and break in your dog’s mouth or digestive system (ouch).
Raw bones are typically safe for your dog (with a few exceptions) and provide protein, help clean the digestive tract, and brush your pup’s teeth too - that’s right, raw bones are nature’s toothbrushes!
To help you become a raw dog bone expert, we’ve put together a simple guide to teach you how to safely prepare raw bones, what to avoid, and how to boost your furry friend’s diet safely.
Raw dog bones myths
You’ve probably heard people say bones are bad for dogs - maybe even vets! But this advice needs to be unpacked a little to make sense.
Raw bones are a crucial part of a dog’s diet, specifically raw meaty bone covered in muscle meat and connective tissue. Adding raw meaty bone to your dog’s diet provides a healthy source of protein, calcium and other nutrients that help with your dog’s digestive system and overall health. For example check out these bones which provide enrichment, plenty of protein, and helps keep pups mentally stimulated too.
Some vets will advise against bones because of the possible risks. These risks include:
These risks all sound pretty scary, because you never want to put your dog in harm’s way. But these risks come from cooked dog bones. Remember, the cooking process makes bones sharp, brittle and easily broken, increasing the chances of injuries to the mouth or insides.
On the flipside, raw bones offer a ton of benefits from keeping teeth clean to providing nutrients and stimulating doggy minds, and your dog’s digestive system is designed to handle bone. As long as you’re feeding the right raw bones (don’t worry, we’ll teach you what to avoid) your dog will be, well, as happy as a dog with a bone.
How often should I feed my dog raw bones?
Don’t be fooled by your dog’s pleading eyes, they don’t need raw bones every day.
Each dog is different and each dog’s tolerance of raw bones is different, so you’ll need to slowly introduce raw dog bones into your pet’s diet to gauge their level. For example, certain dogs have sensitive digestive systems and may become constipated if they have too many bones.
As a rule of thumb, raw dog bones should be around 10% of your pet’s diet. If you’re just starting your raw dog bone journey, aim to introduce chewable bones twice a week. That means the bones are large enough to be chewed on, and not swallowed in one go. For example, I give Lulu a chicken wing or similar sized bone most mornings for breakfast (which doesn’t last long as she loves her bones) and a larger bone she can chew on once a week.
It’s important to know your dog and find out what kind of ‘bone eater’ they are. If they love to scoff and swallow food whole, avoid giving bones that can be swallowed. With a little common sense and supervision, the risk of any harm coming from a raw bone is extremely low.
I’m nervous about using raw bones but still want my dog to be healthy
That’s 100% OK!
Bone content is an essential part of a dog’s raw diet, not just for the nutritional value but to help keep your dog’s teeth clean. The chewing action of bones cleans teeth and uses muscles they may not engage with regular walking and play. Plus, who doesn’t love watching a dog devour a bone?
But if you’re concerned about your dog eating raw bones, whether due to their size or a negative experience with cooked bones, you can still give them the same nutritional benefits with mince that contains bone - like our chicken, duck and turkey mince options.
If you’d rather serve up delicious mince that contains bone you’ll need to consider a dental maintenance supplement like Simply Seaweed - or get in there with a toothbrush and clean your pup’s teeth the old fashioned way (yes there are ‘extra’ dog parents who do this and it’s completely normal).
We’ve heard from plenty of pet owners who say raw bones make their dogs vomit too, and this is normal for kibble-fed dogs. A lifetime of eating carb-heavy processed food can disrupt stomach acid, making it hard to digest bones. If your dog’s tummy can’t handle bones yet, but you’re keen to introduce bones to their diet, check out our Good Guts Green Tripe Topper to strengthen gut health and introduce raw bones safely.
Can puppies eat raw dog bones?
Absolutely.
Puppies can safely eat bones and should be encouraged to learn how from an early age. It’s best to start with poultry bones as they are the softest and easiest to manage, for example chicken necks or chicken wings.
If your puppy is too young to break down soft bones, it’s OK to bash the bones a little to weaken them further. As your puppy gets older you can move onto bigger bones like duck necks, duck wings, turkey necks, and lamb ribs. Adult teeth start to come through around 6 months of age, so move onto bigger bones when the time is right.
Best of all, puppies have endless energy, which makes a chicken frame a healthy meal and a great way to keep little bundles of energy engaged and stimulated.
Let’s recap what we’ve learnt
There’s a lot of confusing information online about raw dog bones, so let’s recap the important stuff.
Finally, never feed dogs bones together (even the most placid dogs can become very protective of bones). I’ve seen the aftermath of vicious dog fights that started over food and bones, even from dogs who have “never done that before".
With these tips and tricks in mind you’ll be ready to throw your dog a bone, knowing you’re looking after their health and cleaning their teeth too.
At the Saltiest Dog we’re always here to help, so browse our collection of nutritious bones here. Or, get in touch with your raw dog bone questions - we’d love to hear from you!
]]>
If I had a dollar for every time I heard that I’d be retired on a tropical beach, coconut in hand.
It’s common for Australian dog owners to think their pooch won’t eat raw meat, but there’s a simple reason why this is typically a false assumption. A raw diet for dogs isn’t just easy to introduce - it’s natural.
When I hear a dog won’t eat raw meat, the first question I’ll ask is “what do they like to eat?”. Nine times out of 10 the answer is cooked meat. COOKED!!! Cooking makes meat more appealing for many reasons including a more palatable texture change and the melting of fat to release flavour. That’s not even mentioning the delicious smells that are released from cooking! Because dogs are all about smell, not taste, if it smells better it tastes better.
Let me ask you, would you rather a cooked steak, or a slab of raw beef? Well, your dog would make the same choice. That’s why my next question is, “what do you do when your dog won’t eat their raw meat?” which is usually answered with “I cook the raw meat for them...then they eat it”.
FACEPALM!!!!
Your dog is a genius
Dogs are clever creatures and learn from past experiences. Think about dog training as an example. The keys to a well-trained dog are consistency and repetition. Rewarding good behaviour and ignoring bad.
With fussy eaters on a raw diet for dogs, the same principles apply. Every time your dog doesn’t eat what you offer and you give them something else (even if it is later in the day) you are telling them “I will give you what you want...eventually”. Just like I did last time, and the time before that.
If your dog wants their raw chicken cooked, they won’t eat it until you cave in to their pleading stare (no shame here, we all love to give our dogs what makes them happy). Unless you make a move to introduce a raw diet for your dog, your furry friend will continue to (try to) convince you that they only eat cooked meat.
What if my dog refuses to eat their raw diet?
The simplest approach can also be the toughest - ‘tough love’.
Refusing to substitute raw meat until your dog chows down (which they will when they get hungry enough) is a proven method of kickstarting a raw food diet for dogs. Unfortunately, this can be harder than it sounds as no loving dog owner is okay with seeing their dog refuse food. (If my boxer Lulu didn’t eat her dinner I would panic and rush her to the vet because that is unheard of. Though I am lucky she’s not a fussy eater).
There is a silver lining here. When it comes to dogs, there are health benefits associated with not eating. And if you’re worried about the thought of leaving your dog to go hungry, rest easy knowing dogs often fast themselves. The benefits of fasting include:
Your dog may be a master at convincing you they are on death’s door without food, but it won’t harm a dog to go without food for 24hrs (or even 48hrs in some cases). As long as your dog has fresh water at all times, they won’t starve. Keep in mind, these rules don’t apply to puppies – puppies must eat regularly throughout the day but DO NOT make the mistake of cooking food for your puppy, or you may face a dogs lifetime of fussiness.
How to apply the ‘tough love’ method
The tough love approach WILL work if you stick to it. This means NO other human food or treats from anyone. (For the people that say “I tried this and my dog didn’t eat for a week”, your dog was getting food from somewhere, or someone!).
Here’s how it works:
Step #1 - Offer your dog their meal at their usual meal time
Step #2 -Leave the food for 15 minutes
Step #3 - If your dog doesn’t eat the food within 15 minutes, put it back in the fridge
Step #4 - Offer your dog the exact same meal 1 - 2 hours later
Step #5 - Leave the food for 15 minutes. If they sniff it or eat a little, praise them (reward the good). If they don’t eat the food, take it away again.
Step #6 - Offer a fresh meal of the same variety at the NEXT meal time (i.e. if they only have dinner, offer it at dinner time the next day).
Step #7 - Keep the eating routine and food the same and continue with steps 1 through 6. Don’t offer treats or any human food between meals (or you’ll undo your hard work).
Your entire household must be on board with this approach and you must be consistent. That means ignoring your dog when they are stalling or not eating. Any acknowledgement can be taken as a reward so don’t say a word (or even make eye contact). Calmly take raw food away and try again later.
When your dog does take a bite of their raw food diet (and they will) make sure to make a big fuss and reward them with praise. It’s OK to give one of their favourite healthy treats after they’ve eaten from their raw diet. This will encourage them to do the same the next time you offer a new meal.
The secret to transitioning to a raw diet for dogs
Transitioning to a raw diet for dogs after years of eating dry or cooked food can be very overwhelming for some animals. Make the transition slowly by including a little new raw food and a lot of the old food. Gradually reverse that ratio over as many days or weeks as needed. If your dog begins to refuse their raw food diet, go back to serving more of their old food and start the transition process again. Some dogs can go cold turkey from one kind of food to another; while others need more time.
For less severe fussy eaters you may need nothing more than a little tempting. Something that smells amazing and is sprinkled onto new raw food can work wonders. Fishiness is a strong smell that dogs often love, so adding some sardines or salmon (plus yummy fish juice) can help with picky eaters. Coconut oil warmed up and drizzled is also a tasty (and healthy) treat to tempt pooches.
Not only are these amazing for tempting fussy eaters to eat whatever is in their bowl, but they are also a highly nutritious inclusion to your dog’s diet. Win-win!
If you’re looking for more transition tips pouring warm bone broth over the meal can also help. Here at the Saltiest Dog, we use a super easy to make bone broth packed with nutrients. This bone broth is an example of using foods that are healthy to tempt your dog to eat, rather than adding something unhealthy as a temptation (we’re looking at you peanut butter and cheese!).
Ensuring your dog doesn’t get TOO many treats throughout the day, and making mealtimes fun and engaging, can also help with raw food diet transitions. Why not turn dinner time into a training session or a treasure hunt to keep things interesting?
Ready to get your dog on a (healthy) raw food diet?
There are many factors that can affect your pets interest in a meal. This could range from the temperature, the freshness, the protein type or even the material their bowl is made of! Yes some dogs are that extra!
Transitioning a dog to a raw food diet can take time, so it's worth experimenting with the tips we’ve provided to see if a small change can make a big difference.
And remember, at the Saltiest Dog we’re always here to help, so browse our collection of yummy (healthy) ready made raw meals here. Or, get in touch with the details of your fussy eater – we would love to help!
PEASE NOTE: Sick dogs typically don’t want to eat. Don’t mistake fussiness with illness. If your dog’s demeanour or behaviour is different and they are refusing to eat they may require medical attention from a vet.
]]>
After all, your family eats a balanced diet, why should your furry friends be any different?
Raw dog food diets are growing in popularity as pet owners look for natural options that are less processed than your average store bought dog food. With raw food diets booming, it's important to dispel some common myths and provide some simple, easy to digest truths about this dietary decision.
Like humans, each dog’s dietary requirements are different. There’s no one-size-fits-all approach that works so it’s crucial you know what to do and what to steer clear of..
If you’re looking to join the raw dog food revolution, here’s everything you need to know.
Is a raw dog food diet good for my dog?
Absolutely!
Raw meaty bones, as well as meat muscle, organ meat, and raw nuts/fruit/veggies, are an important inclusion in a balanced raw diet.
There are many health benefits that come with feeding your pets a raw food diet as dogs are biologically designed to eat raw food. Many pet owners assume a raw diet is dangerous, just as you wouldn’t want to serve your family a raw chicken (eww, no thanks). However, raw food unlocks a number of proven health benefits for your pup, including:
With so many ways for your dog to look and feel healthier, the challenge is to transition from a commercial dog food diet to a raw dog food diet without upsetting your dog’s digestive system.
How to transition your dog to a raw food diet
You probably wouldn’t enjoy eating a service station sausage roll every meal. Unfortunately, store-bought kibble provides a similar experience for your pet, with overly cooked, heavily processed and low quality food at the heart of most commercial pet food.
While some dog breeds are able to handle an immediate switch to raw food, it’s better to make the transition a slow one to avoid any digestive problems. Start by choosing one type of meat and introduce this to your dog’s diet over the course of at least a week. This slow introduction will let you spot any potential allergies and see which type of meat your dog enjoys most (after all, you want them to enjoy each meal).
Over the course of a few days, gradually reduce the amount of kibble and increase the amount of raw meat until your dog’s diet is 100% raw. You can repeat this process with each type of meat, rotating the protein type.
You’ll need to check your dog’s stools each day as a way of tracking their transition. If stools are loose it’s advisable to cut back on the amount of raw food being eaten and integrate slowly, maintaining regular kibble until your pup’s digestive system can catch up.
How much raw food should I feed my dog?
OK let’s dive into some numbers. As a starting point, most adult dogs eat between 2-3% of their body weight each day. It’s crucial to remember that all dogs are different, so it’s better to use this figure as a guide and not a hard and fast rule.
Body condition, as well as weight, is a more effective marker of how much raw food your dog should be eating. We all love to slip the odd treat to our dogs, but if your pup has put on a few pounds you’ll need to take this into account when crunching the numbers. If your dog needs to drop a few kilos to enjoy their doggy park dates, you should drop the amount of raw food eaten to 2%.
Here’s an example raw food diet with an imaginary pupper - we’ll call him Buster - to help you figure out your own daily raw food diet:
Meet Buster. Buster is a 25kg dog. Here’s what Buster needs to eat to stay healthy.
If your dog is extremely active and loves to get moving, they may need to be fed on the higher end with more raw food daily. While a less active dog who spends the day on the couch (let’s be honest, sometimes you just need to zen out) should be fed on the lower end of this range with less raw food each day.
Keep in mind, the table above is a guide only. Your dog’s individual metabolism and lifestyle will impact how much raw food they enjoy each day. It’s always best to round down when uncertain, as most dogs are overfed and could afford to lose a little weight.
Can I still give my dog snacks during the day?
We all love to treat our pups from time to time (especially if you’ve got kids who slip food under the table). The figures in the table above include ALL daily food. If you give your dog bones (which you should be regularly for their health), treats or brekky, you’ll need to reduce the above figures accordingly.
For example, I give my dog Lulu a chicken wing, duck wing or duck neck for breakfast each day (there’s no resisting her morning stares) so I reduce her dinner (roughly) by the weight of her morning meal. Lulu is 27kg which works out to be 540 grams of raw food per day (roughly 2% of her body weight). Once I subtract her 100 gram breakfast, that brings her dinner down to around 440 grams. I don’t weigh her dinner every night, as I have a good idea of what that amount looks like, but when you’re starting out it’s a good idea to know exactly how much you’re giving.
Just like our human diets, it’s all about balance.
And if you’d rather simplify each meal even more, use the following guide based on our Saltiest Dog ready-made meals.
Looking to save time and money with ready-made meals? Explore our raw dog food choices here.
What if I have a puppy?
Congrats on your new bundle of joy!
Puppies require a slightly different raw feeding approach as they have growing bodies to fuel. Puppies under 12 months should be fed up to 10% of their body weight each day, with the amount of raw food decreasing as they get older.
2 - 4 months old = 8-10% of body weight (3-4 meals)
4 - 6 months old = 6-8% of body weight (3-4 meals)
6 - 8 months old = 4-6% of body weight (2-3 meals)
8 - 12 months old = 3-4% of body weight (2-3 meals)
As puppies need to maintain their energy (whether at the dog park or keeping you busy at home) it’s recommended to split meals into 3 or 4 per day - rather than the one meal per day for mature dogs.
Does it matter what type of raw meat I feed my dog?
Short answer, yes.
Slightly longer answer, follow the BARF guidelines.
Don’t stress if the name sounds like something your dog would do after eating store-bought kibble, the BARF guideline breaks down a healthy raw food diet for your dog (it’s the most popular and common raw diet for dogs, so you’re in good hands).
They recommend: 70% muscle meat | 10% raw edible bone | 7% vegetables | 5% liver | 5% other secreting organ | 2% seeds or nuts | 1% fruit
For many pet owners this can feel a little confronting. It’s not easy to divide a diet up into the recommended BARF guidelines. That’s why The Saltiest Dog ready made raw meals are such a time saver. Each meal is pre-made with the perfect mix so you can give your dog the balanced diet they need without investing the time or money to source and measure individual ingredients.
Check out the full list of BARF benefits here.
Are you ready to start your pup on a healthy, new path?
When was the last time you sat down and tucked into a meal that your body had been craving?
Switching to a raw food diet gives your beloved pet that same feeling, all while unlocking a range of health benefits that make your dog look and feel like they should. Remember to make the transition slowly, figure out your daily meals using our simple raw dog food formula, and change your approach if you’re raising a puppy.
When you’ve got your dog’s best interests at heart, you’ll have raw food in their bowl.
]]>1. EGG
Get your dogs dinner ready. Crack an egg on it. Voila! Not only have you given it a delicious protein boost, but egg also contains a bunch of awesome amino acids, plus iron, selenium and Vitamins A, B2 and B12. Don't destroy the goodness by cooking it- raw all the way. There is some talk that feeding your dog raw eggs can cause a biotin deficiency, but it would take many eggs per day for this to happen so don't stress. Stick to 2-3 times per week for your average sized dog and you won't have any problems.
NB: you can also feed the shell if your dogs into it (full of calcium but also the most likely place for salmonella to be hiding so choose your own adventure!).
2. FISH
Historically, dogs are scavengers that can technically survive without meat. But if you want them to flourish, the benefits from a raw food diet based on raw meaty bones is unmatched.
Its true, feeding raw can be more expensive than a feeding your dog dry dog biscuits from the supermarket. You may find that compared to some “premium” dry foods its actually quite comparable. Can you put a price on good health and a long life? When you get asked at the dog park how you get your dog so shiny and healthy looking, you won’t regret a cent!
A healthier dog means less visits to the vet which over the lifetime of your pet will save you heaps!
Want to try your dog on a yummy raw meal?
Get in touch with us for a free sample, or check these options out....
Problem behaviours like excessive barking, digging or general destructiveness usually occur out of boredom. So lack of enrichment is the problem, not your dog. And I'm going to help you solve it with these boredom busters.... (NB: keeping your dog free of boredom will require some effort from you- your dog, and your couch, are worth it!).
1. Get them a sand pit worth digging in! It can be as simple as a shell pool with a little sand in the bottom plus a few favourite toys, to a big old bath tub with toys and treats buried deep daily. If your dog likes water, and its a relatively nice day, swap out sand for water.
4. Dogs don't sit with us at the dinner table and dogs don't need to eat their dinner from a bowl. Feeding time is a perfect opportunity for enrichment, Instead of just a bowl of food in the evening, split their daily meal in two and hide the morning meal around the yard. If you're time poor, scatter a handful of food or treats before you leave in the morning. (a Snufflematt is great for this also). Got some old shoe boxes lying around? Put some food in a few different ones and hide them around the yard (leave the lids off and start with something smelly until they get a bit better at hide and seek). You'll never see your dog have so much fun!
5. Build an obstacle course! 20 bucks at your local tip shop will get you an old coffee table, some milk crates, a tyre and some rope. Get creative. Think jumps, weave poles and tunnels. Walk your dog through it with treats before you leave them alone in their new adventure park, and be sure its safe for them to play in unsupervised. This is a great thing to have in the yard for daily training exercises also, which will also help to keep naughtiness at bay.
#squadgoals
7. Four words: Long. Lasting. Chew. Treats. This is most effective if you can pop home on your lunch break and leave a treat that will get them through til the afternoon (read: nap time #4). We're talking pigs ears, fish twists, roo ribs, beef trachea and furry roo ears. Mix it up. Keep it interesting. Fresh raw meaty bones are also a great treat that you can give regularly.
8. We all love a room with a view. If your dog has a big, tall fence they can't see over or through they are more likely to bark at every noise they hear behind it. Get them a view. It can be as simple as this....